Overpowering, Underpowering, Distortion, Clipping, and Everything in Between

May 1, 2008 by Neil Middlemiss


- Image: 3D Sound Wave Rendering from FXshare.com

One of the most fundamentally misunderstood concepts in audio is what
happens when we apply power to a speaker. We understand that power is
what makes the magic happen, but so few of us "get" what that power
does. For example, you've probably heard about someone who was
"underpowering" their speaker; what on earth does this mean? You've
probably heard this before and if you haven't it will probably be a
wake-up call: if underpowering really existed, you would be
"underpowering" your speaker every time you turned down the volume.
This is one of many ideas that continues to falsely permeate the audio
industry and, together, we can put an end to it.

So where do these misunderstandings come from? Well, the power concept
is inevitably encountered in two situations: 1) You are looking for a
certain level of output, and 2) You have a speaker that doesn't work
anymore. These two concepts are completely related: if you seek a
certain level of output that requires more power than the driver can
handle, then you're looking at scenario #2.

*Definitions*

To understand the idea behind power, let's define a few things first,
shall we?

/Overpowering/ - Overpowering should be simple to understand: a driver
is being "overpowered" any time it has been damaged. If the driver has
not been damaged, have you really "over" powered it? Logic should say
no. In fact, this is probably a term you can stop using in the future.

/Underpowering/ - As I mentioned above, this is a completely useless
and non-sensical term. If you don't have the output you want to hear
from a speaker, say as much. Again, we should stop using this term.

/Distortion/ - Distortion can come from a lot of sources. In the
simplest sense, distortion is when the output signal differs from the
input signal. For the purpose of this article, we will be looking
primarily at distortion generated by the amplifier and passed to a
speaker. As a secondary form of distortion, we will briefly talk about
driving a speaker into distortion, by which I mean that the speaker has
been driven beyond Xmax. Distortion from your speaker is a whole other
ball of wax and we will only briefly stop here today.

/Clipping/ - Here we will strictly stick to the type of clipping that is
passed from your amplifier to your speaker, and is created by setting
the input sensitivity (read: gain) too high when considering the input
voltage from your source unit (ie. headunit, preamp, etc).

*Clipping and Distortion*
Warning: Much of the following will directly oppose everything you've
ever been told about power, distortion, and clipping. The fact remains
that power is almost completely misunderstood, even by many experts in
the industry.

Let us start the next section by breaking down distortion generated by
the amplifier and clipping, which are really the same thing. As we said
early, distortion occurs when the output signal is different than the
input signal. I will give a very simple example here and introduce you
to a concept that may be new to you.

When we play a signal on your speaker, the resulting sound consists of a
number of frequencies with various amplitudes. If we play a 100 Hz sine
wave through a speaker, then the fundamental frequency is 100 Hz. Now,
we may also see response at other frequencies that are typically a given
order higher than the fundamental. Assuming a fundamental frequency of
100 Hz, we can say that the second harmonic is 200 Hz, the third
harmonic is 300 Hz, the 4th is 400 Hz, and so on. The presence of any
of these additional harmonics is considered distortion as they were not
present in the original signal. Typically, the amplitude of these
harmonics decrease as the harmonic itself increases, ie. second harmonic
distortion is often higher than third, third is higher than fourth, etc.

Clipping is itself a form of distortion. In the above example, we
assumed a 100 Hz signal. However, if we were to increase the gain until
we have fully clipped the signal, the result would be the fundamental
frequency (100 Hz) and its higher order harmonics. If you've ever heard
a speaker reproducing a clipped signal, you probably already know that
is sounds like distortion, but you've probably also been told something
else: that distortion or clipping an amplifier will immediately damage
your speaker. Hold on to your hats: it doesn't! Perhaps a little
further explanation is required?

Here is a picture demonstrating what a sine wave looks like, as well as
a square wave (fully clipped signal), a triangle wave, and a sawtooth wave.


- Image: Wikipedia

That square wave sure looks ugly! More importantly, you should notice
one very important thing, though, when comparing a sine wave and a
square wave: the area under the curve from any point A to any point B
will always be greater with a square wave than with a sine wave. In
other words, a square wave carries more power over a given time. I like
to call it "increased average power over time" because it sounds cooler
that way. Hopefully the visual makes this next sentence understandable
as well: if the amplitude of the signal increases (the power increases)
within a given period of time, then the average power over time has
increased as well.

*How a Speaker is Damaged*
Let's take a moment now to examine why and how speakers are damaged by
power. Essentially, there are two types of failure:

1) Mechanical - This means that the speaker has physically been driven
beyond its limits; usually stuff starts banging together. For example,
a speaker can be mechanically damaged if the former is smashed into the
backplate a time or two. This occurs from applying too much
instantaneous power (read: power at any given moment) in a certain
enclosure. Since excursion (which is how much the coil moves) increases
as frequency decreases, we know that a speaker is more likely to have
over-extended itself at low frequencies. This is increasingly likely if
the enclosure is larger than typical for that subwoofer, or if you are
playing frequencies that fall below the "tuning frequency" of your
vented enclosure.
2) Thermal - Simply put, this happens when more power is dumped into the
voice coil than the coil can handle.

But stop! Thermal damage doesn't just come from too much power. Have
you ever wondered why a speaker can take ungodly amounts of power for a
brief moment without the coil exploding? Well, that's because it is
average power over time that matters. There are many subwoofers that
can take 10 kW or more for a second or two, but not many that can take
it for a full minute. And here we come full circle: whether it is a
sine wave, square wave or any wave in between, the speaker will not be
damaged thermally if the input average power over time is less than the
driver can handle. That's right: a low amplitude clipped signal will
not damage your speaker at all! You can test this for yourself: get a
speaker, hook it up, play a clipped signal, and keep the volume low.
You will not see any damage at all.

*When is it too much? When is it not enough?*

So the natural question arises: what is too much average power over
time? To be honest, it is tough for any layperson to make a good
estimate. Manufacturers typically publish power handling specifications
like "100 Watts RMS," which is misleading because there really is no
such thing as "Watts RMS" (a story for another day, or you can read here).
However, we know that we can apply more or less power if we adjust the
time over which this power is applied accordingly, which is why I
support buying just enough.

Dynamite in a monkey's hand is quite dangerous and too much power in a
novice's hands is equally so (minus the casualties). One has to wonder,
though: what is really gained by exceeding the manufacturer's own
recommendations? Is the associated thermal risk of increasing power
really worth it? The answer is simply no, unless you are chasing tenths
in SPL competitions. When more power is applied to the voice coil, the
voice coil becomes hot (duh!). At a certain point, this heat begins to
increase the resistance of the voice coil to the current flowing through
it. So we add more power, and more power, and more power... and before
you know it, the resistance of the voice coil has increased such that
adding more power will not gain any more output. Better yet is the
nature of the human ear: an increase in sound pressure of 1-3 dB is just
barely audible for most humans. To achieve such an increase, we are
looking at doubling the power we are already applying and, thus, putting
the coil at greater risk of thermal failure.

In the event you can't achieve the output you're looking for within the
manufacturer's recommended power handling specifications, your best
solution is usually to look for a different speaker. Of course,
achieving high-output is an equally complicated concept, but more power
than a speaker is rated for is rarely the solution (and will most
certainly void your warranty).

*Conclusion*
In short, you should now understand that only power can damage a
speaker. There are no mystery clipping gnomes that will kill your
speaker at the first sign of distortion. Furthermore, you should be
aware that power is just a way to get a speaker moving: there is no
underpowering or overpowering, there are just various levels of output
and a damaged speaker. Next week we will look even more closely at some
of these concepts, but please ask questions or correct me if something
is unclear. It is time to stop perpetuating these myths that never seem
to die and a good education is the right battle-axe to wield in this fight.

ford302redneck 4 months ago

"That's right: a low amplitude clipped signal will
not damage your speaker at all! You can test this for yourself: get a
speaker, hook it up, play a clipped signal, and keep the volume low.
You will not see any damage at all."

Quoted cause this was my favorite part.

Great read though.
nauc 3 months and 4 weeks ago

too bad theres no CEA-2006 for speakers power handling, or something similar. just like companies who overrate their amps, whose to say they dont overrated their speakers, wanting you to burn them up so youll have to spend more money to replace them. and just like companies rate their amps at different V, do all companies rate their speakers the same. do they all run sine waves for the same exact amount of time, same environmental climate etc?

"so much trouble in the world"....
ccdoggy 3 months and 4 weeks ago

True a low level clipped signal will not damage the speaker, but its still not good for it in the sense that no one will be actually sending a low level clipped signal. It will always be higher wattage clipped signals. Clipping damages speakers because it sends DC current through the voice coil and thus heats it up much faster then if it was the normal AC current (sound). Slight clipping on a sub is fine as they typically have larger heavier duty voice coils that can handle it, but it can and will eventually cause damage.

Thermally shotrt term high wattage is fine, its mechanically that it comes into question. I have seen an idiot that sent way too much power to his sub for a show off moment and it bottomed out the the point of cracking the voice coil in half, shorting it out, and tearing the spider off. but just as everything else it all depends on the power, how clean it is, and what its driving.

The term under powering is used in a way towards someone that is expecting their "1000 watt max" sony amp to power their JL sub. That person is under powering the sub as in chances are if they actually turn it up it will be clipping and kill the speaker. Its not used in a sense that anything less then what it is rated for is bad for it. Sure I could send only 100 watts too a 1000 watt sub, but in reality I bought the 1000 watt sub to make some noise, so when i turn up the nob and clip the thing to death I was expecting much more out of it, but I was not giving it enough real power to get it there.

You can overpower a speaker all you want, just dont over drive it. Assumidly say you have a 100 watt rated speaker (assume it bottoms out at 100 watts real input) and you hook it into a 200 watt amp. no one is making you turn the 200 watt amp up all the way, just keep it under control and know the limits of the system, and know what it sounds like when the speaker bottoms out, or the tweeter freaks out (yes thats a technical term).

Personally i use the wattage ratings as a reference, but in reality the difference in output between 80 and 100 watts is not much at all. Just feed the speakers good clean power, heck my current speakers are over powered by 50 watts, and know the limits, you dont have to turn it up all the way. chances are if you hear the speaker bottom out you are still fine just turn it down, chances are nothing was damaged. Listen and be aware.

wow i wrote allot...
samuraitheta 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Good Article.

I agree with ccdoggy about the def. of underpowering.
Mike Edgar 3 months and 4 weeks ago

It's funny, I did a whole write up on this a few years ago on Forceaudio.... ran a test destroying 40 odd drivers...

Clipping is so misunderstood...

It dosen't matter what you send a coil, DC, clipped, AC whatever... People forget so often that many drivers have power ratings a 1Kz.. Where there is no cooling from cone motion...

You can actually show people test data to prove this, I did, and still people argue... Oh well :)
heavystarch 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Mike,

Do you have a link to your tests?
heavystarch 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Never mind - just googled "force audio mike edgar" and it looks like ForceAudio is still down.

Did you post your results on any other website?
todd.brust 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Good Article. Saw it on Force Audio a while ago. But Yes force is down. I think for good, but Mike would have to confirm that.
lukas 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Mike, if you want me to host those tests let me know.
Mike Edgar 3 months and 4 weeks ago

Yeah, as of now Force is down for good, I haven't heard a word from my buddy who hosts(ed) the site in over a month...

I think someone copied and pasted the writeup on SSA, it was called the "clipping effect test"

I still think I have graphs... Somewhere.... It was about 4 years ago... LOL!
Mike Edgar 3 months and 4 weeks ago

vague mention here-

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=12844&st=15

-Mike
ccdoggy 3 months and 4 weeks ago

It should be cleared up the destruction of a driver due to clipping is not because of distortion (although clipping is a form of distortion), it is because when it clips it sends dc current to the driver which causes allot more heat then the normal ac current and thus causes the coil to heat up and eventually burn out.
gunforhire 3 months and 4 weeks ago

it is because when it clips it sends dc current to the driver which causes allot more heat then the normal ac current and thus causes the coil to heat up and eventually burn out.


No, this is incorrect. A clipped sine wave doesn't have a "DC" component AT ALL. It has considerably MORE high frequency content however.

A square wave - a clipped sine - is simply a summation of amplitude-decreasing but frequency-increasing harmonics of the fundamental. Take a 40 Hz sine wave and clip it - you get 120 Hz, 200 Hz, 280 Hz, and so on but NOTHING is added below 40 Hz.

The reason clipping is "bad" is because of the extra power from these harmonics. A sine wave will have an average power level of 1/2 the peak power. A square wave will have an average power equal to the peak power. THAT is the problem.

There is ZERO presence of DC in a clipped signal. It's all extra AC components that cause the extra power.
ccdoggy 3 months and 4 weeks ago

wait, now i am confused. When i look at a graph of a clipped signal it sure looks like it sends DC at the clipped flat "peaks". thus why i say DC, Given its an alternating dc current, but its still dc at that point, no matter how long it lasts.

So If i were to send a dc signal to the amp via a battery or something, would it not output dc current amplified? wouldn't that be exactly what clipping is at least on the peaks?

please correct me if i am wrong, but thats what i have seen other people say and what I visually see happening in the graphs.

What if i did that scenario i posted above with a 100 watt amp and a 1000 watt sub, clipping the amp from what i can tell from your post is just send more powerful harmonics thus causing heat? but the sub is more then rated to handle the powers of the harmonics caused in clipping the signal. but the sub will still burn up eventually, why?

thanks for any clarification you can give.
filtor1 3 months and 4 weeks ago

I look forward to Pt. 2.
gunforhire 3 months and 4 weeks ago

ccdoggy,

What is the frequency of a DC signal? Zero Hz. That is an infinite timeline. DC literally means Direct Current - not Alternating Current (AC). If the level changes, BY DEFINTION it is NOT DC.

Now if you have a clipped signal, it will have "flat" tops and bottoms, BUT they are changing level. And in fact they change level with the frequency of the clipped signal; they are in fact square waves which - by definition - are a summation of sine waves, and hence an AC waveform.

I know the "prevailing wisdom" of car audio says otherwise, but they're in fact wrong. A square wave is NOT a DC value; it is a fundamental (for a 40 Hz square wave, each half of the wave would be 1/80th of a second long) plus a series of ever-increasing-in-frequency harmonics. There is NOTHING lower than the fundamental, and thus there cannot be DC.

DC does not mean flat - it means CONSTANT. If you're not constant, you're not DC.

In your example above, clipping will increase the average power to the sub, up to twice the rated average power output of the amp (100W amp fully clipped could be capable of 200W output). If your 1000W sub burns up it's because either:

1. Your 1000W sub is not really a 1000W sub (the 99% case)
2. Your 100W amp is considerably more powerful than 100W (rarely the case)

POWER kills speakers; if the speaker is moving, it can handle more power than when it is not moving, but in either case power is the killer. If your REAL 1000W speaker dies with a 100W amp fully clipped (a situation I've never seen, and I've been in audio for a few decades), then your speaker was NOT a 1000W speaker. Sure, it may be rated for that, but ratings on most car audio speakers are about as reliable as ratings on "dude my new gear is teh best!" from newbies...

In fact, what usually happens is someone has a 1000W rated sub (which, if rated per normal standards would do around 300-400W), and hooks it up to a 400W amp. They set their gains at 3/4 (because it's only 300W that way, right? WRONG!), and then crank the crap out of it, clipping heavily.

Now, if the amp was unclipped, you'd only have the bass frequencies coming through, and maybe - at most - 400W into the speaker. Clipped though, and the speaker's getting 700+W into it and quickly dies. And the buyer thinks it's because he didn't have enough power, so it must either be underpowered or because "clipped signals" caused it to die. When in fact it was overpowered.

Take a good quality 500W sub, 4 Ohms, and connect it to your car battery. It'll pop forward completely, and then sit there. Just dissipating power. It'll dissipate about 45W continous for as long as you like, without a problem. Pure DC, but no problems at all. Now take it, put it on a 500W amp and clip the crap out of it - 1000W and it's toast.

Bottom line: a clipped sine wave becomes a square wave (at extreme levels of clipping) and that is a purely AC (fundamental and higher frequency) situation.

If you want a quick primer on square waves (which is what a heavily clipped signal essentially is), check this link:

Square Wave

Note the first equation - it is a summation of non-zero sine waves, odd multiples. There is NO zero-frequency component in that summation; hence no DC.
blotto 3 months and 4 weeks ago

An excellent article. Cleared up a lot of misconceptions I had. I'll have to read it a few more times before I fully understand all the main points.

Blotto Green lasers rulz
ccdoggy 3 months and 4 weeks ago

I guess i just have it hard coded into my brain that its dc that kills, thus why its hard to change my thinking.

True I admit that its not true DC by definition yes. but that section of flatness if i could cut it out would that not be DC?

for an example I have a 1000 watt pro amp (independently tested to do a real 1000+ watts into 2 ohms) and a diy sub, the driver is rated for 1000 rms watts. When i clip my amp I am actually sending ~2000 watts to it?

I guess my issue is why the power goes up so much when clipping verses normal, what if it dosent clip but is on the verge of it? does that mean that wattage wise its getting almost the same amount of power as if it were clipped?

Thanks for helping to clarify this!
gunforhire 3 months and 4 weeks ago

ccdoggy,

Take a 1000W subwoofer - connect it to a 9V battery. Leave it that way until the battery is dead. Will the DC output from the battery kill your speaker? If not, then DC isn't a problem. And I can assure you that's the case.

The question about power is one simply of average power of an arbitrary waveform. For a sine wave, you take the peak power (peak voltage squared divided by the load), and cut it in half; that is the average power delivered.

For a square wave, the power is equal to the peak power; there is no cutting in half. That's why a square wave will have twice the power output of a sine wave.

About your question: no, you're probably NOT delivering twice the power unless your clip light is ALWAYS on. As you start to clip, your sine wave starts moving towards a square wave; with 100% clipping, your sine wave becomes a square wave. But in between, it's a continuum of waveforms, adding additional power beyond the 1000W nominal rating of your amp.

If your clip lights flicker, then you may be putting out 1100W or 1200W; if they are on solid, then you're probably putting out double the power.

Why does the power go up? Look at the series expansion of that equation. You start to add additional harmonic sine waves to the fundamental. Same thing with distortion - extra AC signals start to increase in amplitude (THD - Total Harmonic Distortion). You still have all the fundamental power, but start to add additional power.

It's NOT distortion or "DC" that kills speakers; it's power. If it was distortion or DC, then we could kill a subwoofer by clipping the crap out of a head deck, or using that 9V battery! No, it's NOT the waveform that is the killer, it's the power DELIVERED by the waveform. And that will change as you start to clip, and move into heavy clipping. And is a killer if the baseline power is close enough to the ratings of the driver.

Please check out the equation of the square wave power series; it should explain the issue (if you can follow the math). Trust me, I'm an EE who's been doing audio for 22 years now! There isn't and DC in a clipped signal, and it's not the waveform that kills the speaker. It's power delivered, through and through.

And as you move from a sine wave to a square wave (such as happens by clipping), you increase the average power delivered. If your amp is near the rated power of your sub, you will end up delivering more power than your sub can really handle.
Neil Middlemiss 3 months and 4 weeks ago

I'm glad I could at least generate some discussion. ;)

Mike - I saw your test maybe 2 years ago? I would have listed it as a source to help show people that clipping at low levels will not damage a speaker; alas, both Force and CSo (the only two places I've seen it hosted) are done now.

ccdoggy - No, there is not DC present when clipping. You are correct in stating that the "flat" part of the signal is similar to DC in appearance within a very small time window, but all that's really just increased average power over time...not DC at all.

I have had lots of questions about this article here and on other sites....hold tight for part 2. This is a long discussion to be sure and if I had put everything in this article that I wanted to, no one would have read it because it would have been too long. Stay tuned....
ngsm13 3 months and 4 weeks ago

I
Mike Edgar 3 months and 4 weeks ago

The test was about 4 years ago.

It's really tough to try and get people to understand this. Hardly anyone has every done real testing on this that talks about it, it is usually heresay....

I guess the best way to get people to understand would be to get someone to look at a voicecoil like a Calorimeter (just try and leave inductance out of this cenario). Calorimeters were really the most accurate way to measure power back in the day. You would apply power, it would raise a substance in the Calorimeter a certain amount of degrees, and that equated to the amount of power being applied... Now, if you applied X amount of power (watts) it raised the temp of the substance in the meter X amount of degrees. The meter couldn't tell if was DC, AC, Peak, clipped, unclipped, etc... It was just an average reading of the power...

A voice coil is the same thing... If you took a voice coil that was rated (truthfully) to be able to dissapate X amount of wattage, it wouldn't care what type of wattage it was.... The wattage applied will raise the temp of the voice coil (just like the Calorimeter) until it got too hot and failed. If you never applied more than the rated power, it would never fail. Period. A square wave that has 100 watts of power will raise the coil temp the same as a sine, triangle and any other type of signal.... It is a coil of wire, it isn't a semi conductor, it doesn't discriminate (again, inductance aside...)

Now, cone movement can aid in cooling off the coil, but not a whole lot really.... You still have to think of it like the Calorimeter.... That is the best way I can describe it..

As a side note, most manufacturers will calim all kinds of cooling advantages they have, that is fine. But it still boils down to a voice coil that can handle a certain amount of heat...

Also harmonics don't account for much at all, each time you go to the next harmonic the power drops exponentially, there ain't jack in the 3rd, 4th, 5th etc compared to the fundemental.... That is also kind of misunderstood.... I would compare them to non-signifigant FM sidebands (like mostly less than 1% of the total power)
SPLChris 3 months and 3 weeks ago

haha, I bet everyone on caraudio.com feels like an idiot now.
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